YOUNGHUSBAND, George J. and F.E. YOUNGHUSBAND. The Relief of Chitral.

London, Macmillan and Co. 1895.


8vo. Original red cloth, gilt; pp. vi, [2], 183, [4, advertisements]; plates mainly from photographs, 3 maps including 2 folding; a little rubbed, else a very good copy.

First edition, first printing. An account of the Chitral campaign of 1895 by the two Times correspondents who accompanied the expedition.

Yakushi (3rd ed.) Y37.

Provenance: From the library of the mountaineer and soldier Tony Streather (1926-2018), who had come 'to mountain climbing by chance. Staying on in the subcontinent after independence and partition between India and Pakistan, as aide-de-camp to the governor of North West Frontier Province, Streather was the last British officer serving under a Pakistani commanding officer when, in 1950, a Norwegian expedition led by the ecologist Arne Næss arrived in the region with the intention of climbing Tirich Mir (7,708m), the highest mountain in the Hindu Kush' (obiturary in The Guardian). Further high-altitude exploits included joining the 1953 American Karakoram Expedition to K-2 (reaching 7,800m), and participating in the first ascent of Kangchenjunga, the third highest mountain in the world in 1955. This made him the first man ever to climb two peaks of over 25,000 feet.